04/06/2024 – Walking the walk 11

Day 20 – We returned to the same hotel this afternoon. We walked 20km in the heat and were then ferried back, because there is no room at the inn(s). Tomorrow, they will drive us back and we will proceed. This was planned, so it was a luxury to leave our stuff unpacked and stroll with the lightest possible pack today. We both made the most of it!

Despite being short, the day was interesting. We passed a large lake, screened off by the hedgerow, inaccessible from the Camino, but evident from the sudden, sustained chorus of the absurd sounds of frogs: from your standard “ribbit” to falsetto woopie cushion.

Coming into town, the verges were dominated by a statuesque, sturdy yellow weed that (per Google) glories in the excellent superhero name of “Villous Deadly Carrot”.

Our endpoint, El Burgo Ranero, is a meeting of worlds. The highspeed train line charges futuristically through it. It is a truck stop and “interstate” intersection. And, it has a 17th Century church with storks on it, and rustic hostels and eateries (part Zen garden, part tiki bar) aimed squarely at the footsore and thirsty.

We found our pickup point, a pleasant café-bar. We don’t normally do lunch, but today we enjoyed a cold beer and burgers (one meat, one veggie) with another pilgrim also waiting for her return ride. When we got back, we made a quick visit to the supermarket and are now relaxing in the Albergue with homemade red wine spritzers, waiting for our clothes to dry on the communal clotheshorse… A complete Camino day!

Day 21 – This was our last Maseta day: flat, exposed, short (20km so far). We wanted to try our feet/ankles/knees, so we knocked it out, averaging around 11 mins/km. We both arrived in good shape, feeling strong.

Taking advantage of today’s samey stage, I want to “use” my word-quota to tell you 2 stories from earlier nights at the pilgrim table. 2 nights ago, with no alternative, dinner offered only a meatful menu. The kitchen refused to make changes (despite vegetarian options on the bar menu). I was pointed to 2 vegetarian starters white beans and mixed salad. “Super,” I said. “I’ll have beans, followed by beans.” “No,” she said, clearly thinking I’d misunderstood, “frijoles y salada”. I made a sad face, rubbed my belly and said “hambre”. She laughed and allowed me beans, twice. This became a running joke for the entire table, especially commiserating with Carey for having to share a room with me afterwards…

The second story involves Kim, part of a Canadian couple from Victoria. They are loving the experience, in particular because, “People are really honest on the Camino because you’ll never see them again”. I was very taken aback by that causality. Surely, the people you should be most honest with are the ones you WILL see again? Fortunately, (in Carey’s sage opinion), she moved on and (score one for personal growth) I let it go.