12/06/2024 – Walking the walk 15

Day 28 – Today was a long one, over 30km, but on roads or well-maintained paths, so it was easy going. The last time I wrote a poem was June 3rd. Since then, I have felt without headspace or heartspace for anything but walking. Yesterday’s treacherous conditions required all our concentration; or we were managing pain, fatigue without adequate rest; or trying (pointlessly) to avoid exacerbating sore spots. We also had 3 days over 30km and interjecting anxieties about a variety of domestic things (e.g., finding out they cut the electricity to our Calgary apartment…). The walking was something to be endured and delivered, rather than the means of adventure.

Nevertheless, we have been earning physical toughness through daily repetition. With a stable surface, a lull in injuries, we both felt an easy confidence today. We looked up, instead of down for the next non-pointy, non-wobbly footfall. We saw the views under clear skies and knew the stage was within our abilities. We enjoyed it again!

Tomorrow may bring new aches and does bring steep climbs, but today was good. One of my mum’s favourite sayings was Matthew 6:34 – “Sufficient to the day are the troubles thereof”. It also applies to its joys.

We walked past an overgrown row of cherry trees in heavy fruit. I turned to Carey and said “If I had the courage of my convictions, we would take a few.” At once, 2 old men appeared from behind the trees, swinging carrier bags bulging with fruit. This told us (i) they were, in fact, cherries and (ii) scrumping is/was culturally appropriate. So, we snagged some for ourselves, tart and straight from the tree – delicious!

We crossed below 200km to Santiago today. We are in the “ones”!

Day 29 – We took the mountain route, knowing that our day stops short of the grueling climb to O Cebreiro, which comprises tomorrow’s challenge. We enjoyed gorgeous views, and saw almost no other pilgrims. But, also had to bushwhack our way down through vertiginous “tracks” (a generous description), sweet chestnut orchards and near-vertical scree.

Our map had evidently been drawn by the intern. At about 8km in, they just gave up and drew a straight line to the destination – irregardless of cliffs, rivers, 6-lane highways… Fortunately, Carey stepped up to navigate us down. Equally fortunately, we are both recovered, resilient enough to handle some unexpected terrain. We found our way to the ”standard”, “low” route after a detour of roughly 4km, thankful to be on level ground and a well-marked, albeit relatively busy trail!

After that, we made excellent time. Our hostel has 8 clean rooms, a welcoming barmaid, and serves the excellent local lager, Estrella Galicia. Carey is downstairs hanging our clothes on the communal clothes horse. We are at the far end of town, past the cow pasture and over the rushing brook. It is a romantic, pastoral place, nestled in a warm corner of the valley. We are very glad to have arrived.