23/06/2024 – On the Camino Finisterra 1

Day 39 – we were almost entirely resting today. We completed our “Camino Frances” package and moved hotel about 800m to start our Camino Finisterra section. Lying in, having a very drawn-out breakfast and the check-out/check-in switcheroo took us until around 1pm.

We strolled around some “new” (to us) bits of town, then acquired a picnic dinner and settled in for a quiet night.

We counted our kilometres, comparing the official tally (773.50km) to our watch-recorded actuals (942.3km, excluding time in Santiago). We walked over a fifth further, but that is no surprise. For example, traversing a hill (either up or down) rather than ploughing down its middle, increases its length. Weather conditions, terrain, knees, quads… can all result in a longer walk, to avoid or mitigate a problem. We also kept choosing the “complementario” options, heading over mountains, onto by-ways less travelled, simply because we could. An extra 170km doesn’t actually feel that “off”.

Our remaining 4 days “should” add 90km in taking us to the sea, completing the entire breadth of Spain.

Carey and I have proved good walking companions: kind to each other; evenly matched in terms of stamina, pace. We share a “soft task-focus”. For us, the “purpose” of the day is to get from A to B. We will snap, pop into, enjoy the environs, but, we both want to be bootless, enjoying a beer, by early-to-mid afternoon! There are, of course, dozens of other ways. Many people trek in at 7pm, or start before dawn… It just works that we both want to split the day in a similar way.

Day 40 – it felt good to have our boots on again, even better as the way was so much less crowded and the weather dry. We are now relying on the way markers, which worked well. We strolled into Negreira around 1pm, feeling strong (and thirsty) and enjoyed a cold beer, served with delicious paella tapas while waiting to check-in.

It felt like being back to the “old” Camino, pre-Sarria. We climbed through mixed woodland of eucalyptus, oak, sweet chestnut. Each small village ran into the next. This area, although farmland, is much more densely populated. It is also pretty, quiet, fresh. Hints of harvest are everywhere. Wild strawberries are ready for picking. Figs are setting. The grapes and apples are set and swelling. Oranges are ripe on the trees and raspberry canes heavy with red fruit.

Lest we forget we are still on pilgrimage, passion flowers are starting to bloom in hedges. Honeysuckles are back, sweetening the eucalyptus tang.

It feels good to have this little ”reprise” of Camino life before heading off. It will take time to welcome others back in on city terms. The hours of birdsong, the simplicity, the intimate, open conversations with strangers that are the Camino’s gifts are passing. But, we are very grateful to have another short reprieve from the endless impersonal noise of town before we step back in for good.