August 19: Finishing touches

We are less than a week away from departure and working on finishing touches. This time we have a mascot: an as-yet unnamed alien plushy from IKEA. I have customized him/her with a suitably boho look: a hand-made bracelet from Corinne is now an “antennalet”; a thrifted Canada pin, an antenna-ring and a rather gaudy thrifted necklace, pared-down to a choker. Him/her will sit atop my pack, securely fastened by a lanyard. We will see.

This time, Carey is determined to carry an “Iron Cross” item (each) with us as we walk. From memory, somewhere around day 25, we will climb up into the Galician mountains and, at the highest point of the trail, join other pilgrims leaving an “offering” at the striking crucifix. It must have been truly huge when it was erected. Despite the small hill of trinkets, photos, stones, that must cover several metres of its shaft, it still towers over you. Tradition says that it is here you finally part with the weight you brought with you in the form of a totem, allowing you to move on to Santiago in a spirit of renewal.

Last time, unaware of this ritual, we had nothing. It was a loss. At Goodwill yesterday, I found two necklaces, which I have remade as totems. For Carey, a crudely knapped (modern) stone arrowhead strung on a shoelace. It can stand for battles fought, struggles with sharp rough edges. For me, I fashioned a thread of turquoise beads into a favour, strung with charms: a peace sign, an elephant for memory, a moon & stars for dreams.

We are uncannily calm. The trip is short (only 57 days). The preparations are familiar.

We know the three-of-everything rule (one set to wear while you wash the day’s clothes and a spare set in case they are damp in the morning). We know what our “save a day” kits look like (mine? Safety pins, spare laces, dry socks, nappy cream – a panacea, multitool, antihistamine tablets, coffee coins, powerbank, assorted chargers, compression bandages).

We have some innovations based on experience: super-light pocket umbrellas for day’s end, when you are in civvies and running out to find food (also doubling as shade for the sun-baked masetas). Forewarned about how cold it can be in the mountains, beanies, gloves are also packed.

As you know, we “cheat” by arranging bag transfer to our destination town/village. We walk light, with only what we might need for a safe day hike. We also pack a “London” case, where we allow ourselves things like jeans, a “real” pair of shoes, tops and shirts that are not wicking or quickdry… Just a few, for our time in civilization. Gareth kindly holds that for us while we walk.

It’s not a case of “been there, done that”. I am both calm and tinglingly excited, really looking forward to the simplicity and dedication of pilgrimage. We’re just better prepared: more, even, than last time. Who knows what we’ll learn this time around?