June 4: Bugs and Butterflies

We are remembering more, and also noticing more changes as we get into the rhythm of the Frances. They are building out a white dirt road, still a rough surface, not chalk, exactly, but white in the sunlight. They are smoothing the gradients, removing some of the worst drops and scrambles and routing pilgrims along a wider, more orderly path. It’s to the good, and reflects the increased number of travellers. There was a new Australian film (“The Way, My Way”) in 2024 and a new French one in April 2026. The Camino Frances is “hot” right now and full of people inspired by the movies. But, it is hard to find those moments of solitude. Like all addicts, Carey and I need a “stronger” fix. We are already planning the Camino Norte for 2027, a famously wild and challenging path from San Sebastian along the Atlantic coast of Spain.

Don’t misunderstand my comments. We are loving the experience. We are both marvelling at how much more we can enjoy it because we’ve already done one camino before starting on this one. We are stronger and the hills seem, somehow, less steep and demanding than we recall them. It is also turning out to be a very sociable journey. A British couple (Peter and Mary) are on the same itinerary as us (although they go all the way to Santiago), as is Sean (a wonderful Australian with a penchant for detours).

I am also loving having my iphone 16, with its improved camera. I am revelling in really quite awesome pictures of butterflies and insects. Today, the path was crossed by a lot of ant colonies. There were fearsome carnivorous ants, dragging hapless victims back across the path, and also mighty carpenter ants, with their over-sized heads, dragging wheat heads home, bigger than they were. Today’s weird caterpillar (several days have had one) was a moth of some kind, shaped like a sausage of detritus that was only visible because it had left the leaf litter for the path. The butterflies were accommodating today, not least because the start of the morning was cold enough to leave them sluggish: swallowtails, cloudy yellows, commas, browns and whites all posed, or at least, sat long enough for a good shot. Check out the Week 7 album for the results.

We stopped twice for coffee (it was a 29km day). The second time, in Viana, we looked for “The Pilgrims’ Retreat”, a lovely place operated by an older British couple for whom living on the camino was/is a life-long dream (fulfilled). They were closed for the week, but still in business. We found an alternative in a bar just down the road.

As I write this, we have already made one successful foray from our hostel into Logroño for beer and gourmet burgers. It’s still early and we will wander out again. Gelato is a thing here, no doubt reflecting the strong dairy tradition. I anticipate some scoops in my future this evening.

Follow our Journey at:

Click below to follow us on a map:

Email us at:

Karen's Podcast at:

info@walkthewalk.digital

© 2025. All rights reserved.

Inspired by our 2024 Camino Francais, Karen has a periodic podcast called "I sent you a bloody boat", personal thoughts on faith by a person who believes in thinking. Also, known as "The Reluctant Christian". You can listen to it on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts at: