June 8: Party Time

We are feeling the cumulative effect of 1,200km walked. We will certainly be “ready” to stop in León, in 12 days’ time. I took inventory today (we have wifi for the first time in several days). I have almost 1.7 million steps since setting out from Le Puy. This is not saying we are not enjoying this walk: it is so amazing to be in this landscape; covering the ground with confidence (albeit tiring); to be both familiar and constantly surprised and delighted by the changes: in terrain, in the built environment, in the sky, the breeze, the flora and fauna. I feel very attentive – as if this is a constant, consistent “now”. Tomorrow, yesterday are merged into a continuum, but also, each has its own discrete achievements and its own journey.

Evidently, I am very much feeling the “power” of the camino. And, very grateful that we will be back in the Fall. We have been describing ourselves as “addicts” when people express astonishment at our continuing return to the Way. It is a dismissive shorthand, but also a truth. I am feeling truly fulfilled – exactly how and where I want to be (and with whom. I am also grateful for Carey, also loving this special journey). We have both been eaten by bugs. We both have sore joints. We are both bruised, blistered, scratched from clumsy falls (and even just wringing out clothes day after day). We are burnt in places, white in others – walkers’ tans. We are staying in 1-star hotels or no-star hostels; eating from supermarkets or communal tables, or filling up (like errant schoolchildren) on potatoes and pizza mid-afternoon with our Radlers and skipping dinner altogether. It is the MOST unglamourous kind of vacation, and yet it is not unsophisticated, or unrewarding – far from it. I cannot quite remember how I lived before the walking started, other than I love my friends and my home. It is a total privilege.

June is party month in Spain. Our hotel on Friday night (in Logroño) provided earplugs because the party ran to 4:30am in the street outside. We saw the parade, marching bands, even some of the show in the main square, and turned in before the DJ got started. The earplugs didn’t help! Saturday was Gay Pride Day in Narenja. There was a stage set up outside our hotel. The party was already going strong (and the wine flowing) when we got in mid-afternoon. They wound down by 11:30pm (thankfully) and we got our rest. The town square stage kept going to 3am. Luckily, we were too far away to hear them. Clean-up crews were out, hosing down the sidewalks, as we walked out of town in the morning. It looked like a very good time was had. Even Santo Domingo de la Calzada was celebrating: processing the Host for Corpus Christi on Sunday: marching bands, pennant-carriers and girls in Communion white, strewing petals, accompanied the tabernacle, along a route dressed with mandala-like floral carpets.

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Inspired by our 2024 Camino Francais, Karen has a periodic podcast called "I sent you a bloody boat", personal thoughts on faith by a person who believes in thinking. Also, known as "The Reluctant Christian". You can listen to it on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts at: