March 15 - 16: Elbows Up! (Agueda & Abergaria-a-Velha)

They say when you travel with someone you remember why you love them - and what you hate about them. On my side, so far, any “hating” has occurred after 30km and been swiftly followed by remorse and reconciliation. The loving part is much easier. For example, Carey always tidies the room before we leave, a courtesy to cleaners we will never meet. When I was almost unable to stand on Thursday, Carey, himself not in great shape, went out to get supplies. We are committed to de-escalating cold, wet, exhausted situations, mindfully finding something to laugh at together. I was reminded to be grateful for Carey a lot this week (which is as it should be).

In the middle of nowhere, we walked past a gate decorated with cross, crown of thorns and purple cloth. It is a month early, and, therefore, a striking image, a reminder that, as we walk North, we are moving not only physically, but also spiritually - toward Easter (see the Album: Camino Week 2 March 9 – 15).

We also passed many roadside chapels; well-presented churches with clean plaster, patterned tiles – and prominent weathercocks, all with distinctive bowlegs.

The news is so stressful, I have more-or-less avoided it (on purpose) since we started walking. It’s a conscious part of my Lent practice of calming, acceptance and focusing on the things around me. Things I can change or at least witness. Carey is keeping up via podcast. We spotted a Canadian flag sticker on a stop-sign in Landiosa. Carey climbed into the drainage ditch to strike an “Elbows up” pose. It's a small thing, but it reflects a shared resolve. We’ve both been bullied enough. On Sunday, we found another sticker. I did climbed down the bank for my own "Elbows up" photo. I will start on my citizenship application this summer.

But, that’s another time and place… The most amazing thing about today was the absolute glory of the landscape. It helped that today was dry, and with clouds ebbing, flowing across the sky in every shade of white and grey-violet. We were often high up – in hilltop villages; crossing long, arching bridges; walking through recently-felled eucalyptus plantations, whose now-unobstructed views went for miles. There were also 3 great water features: the Vougar at Agueda, the lakes at the Parque da Ponte Medieval do Marnel and the River Vouga at Lameiro. These great swatches of water reflected back the sky and amplified the spring green, just starting to flush the trees. It was a breathtaking day visually, and aurally: those same trees full of black cap warblers, green and gold finches, thrush and dove. And the blossoms are creeping out: hawthorn, apple.

I even got to join my wonderful Bulgarian Bible study group from a park bench in Albergaria this afternoon. We discussed John 19, the Death of Christ. I was struck by the ritualistic plurality of the passage, the widening circles of completion, meaning. Much to carry with me as we continue North.