March 19th: Final stage into Porto

We've made it to Porto. At check-in, the receptionist (we are in a proper hotel, a fancy one on the river front) joked he was confused when “they” arrived to deliver our bags. He said it was “the first time it had ever happened”. Most people (all previous guests?) start their “Portuguese Camino” at Porto. That bodes well for the next couple of weeks (in terms of a “Camino” experience”) and also explains much about why the previous almost-3 weeks have been so “patchy”.

Despite illness, crazy weather, uneven stages and limited comfort stops (cafés, restaurants etc.), we have honestly enjoyed our walk. It definitely made all the difference to do it together, and we have the leverage of our Français experience.

We agree we could not, in good conscience, recommend Lisbon – Porto as an adventure for others. The Camino Français offers community, history, support to create a highly positive experience. On the Portuguése, we have met many open, friendly people and had many fun interactions. But, at a community level, the don’t welcome pilgrims enough to maintain the paths, which are often dangerous and garbage-strewn; or to carve out a bit of selvedge from the sides of busy roads. The camino, too, is clearly impinging on urban development. We have dealt with encroachment, detours and simple overbuilding, but it is hard to be negative about new streets and housing in a hollowed-out landscape.

Carey is adamant he would not do these stages again. I feel that the stretch from Tomar to Coimbra matches anything in Spain and offers really extraordinary history and (cultivated) nature. We both agree, once is enough. That, we really cannot say of the Camino Français which we both intend to do again.

All that said, it has been an epic experience: we have walked almost 450km and over 640,000 steps. We have experienced big skies (and that’s coming from prairie people); enjoyed getting warm and dry after long, cold days; survived driving rain and luxuriated in welcome sunshine, fragrant eucalyptus plantations, reflecting pools and rivers and the flushing green of early spring. We have seen mighty castles (including the UNESCO World Heritage site at Tomar), great monasteries, old-growth vineyards; pollarded olive groves and, on the way into Porto, glimpses of the Atlantic. It’s been awesome.

Porto is a rich city of beautiful, perfectly-pointed and tiled buildings, lining the banks of the River Douro, a continental trade route, where it meets the sea.

We start the “Coastal Way” to Santiago on Friday. We met some pilgrims who have already done that walk. They say it is very special. Given what we have already seen of the views and the landscape, and what we already know about the Spanish pilgrimage routes, we believe them. Tomorrow, we have a day to explore this rich entrepot port with its sculptural churches, grand vistas, all living in relationship with the great green river full of boats and stories.