March 30 & 31: The start of the "Short Camino" (Arcade & Pontevedra)

Today, the camino turned from blue to green as we headed up into the hills, along dirt paths under spring trees. The banks were full of primroses, hyacinths, violets, while, in the villages, the gardens glow with magnolias, azaleas, day lilies. As we climbed, we enjoyed glorious views over the bay, then the estuary. It was a steady day, with plenty of climbs, but each ending in green, tree-lined shade and/or broad, beautiful views.

We walked with a German woman, Kirstin, for the first couple of hours today. She is walking as a present to herself for her 60th birthday. Now her children are grown, she does such things. For her 50th, she spent 3 months in India and we joined her in speculating what her 70th might hold.

We now find ourselves on the same schedule as a group of British retirees and a New Zealand couple (a neurosurgeon and a nurse, both also retired), who volunteered their skills in rural Kenya recently and have remarkable stories.

We are also keeping pace with a couple of women from Vancouver, of Goan heritage, who started at Tui. This stretch of the camino is positively full of people – mostly English-speaking. Still no pilgrim tables, but a growing number of opportunities for camaraderie and sharing.

We are in the final 100km (we passed 70km out today), which is the minimum distance for the Church to recognise your pilgrimage. As with the Camino Français last year, it’s suddenly got busy. Cresting the hill today, we looked down over the trail ahead and counted 15 other walkers. That’s more than we saw in the entirety of our first 3 weeks!

Sunday and Monday have both been warm, even hot days, 24 degrees C. We actually dried our clothes on the window ledge yesterday and today, we both caught the sun. For me, it was my arms, after 2 days of still, bright sun and scant shade, I am developing a farmer’s tan. Carey, nut-brown already, is finally applying sunscreen. Nevertheless, it is a luxurious feeling to sit on wall, or on a plastic lawn chair, and feel the sun blanket you for a few quiet moments. We are heading back into rain, and climbing, so we are basking while we can, sure in the knowledge that we are going to get cold and wet soon. For now, the lizards and the butterflies are out in full force.

Today, too, we were greeted by the first (two) of the pop-up vendors that characterize the route “in season”. Local people who have driven up to a layby, or an open spot and sell drinks and friendship bracelets from their vans. These can be quite elaborate set-ups with chairs, cushions, rugs and art work to draw in the punters. Houses with camino-facing gardens, often put out a picnic table and an honesty jar. You “need” two stamps daily at this stage to get your completion certificate. All these canny entrepreneurs have “stamp here” signs in multiple languages.