October 3: Back online! (Oct 4)

As they say, “the best laid plans…oft gan aglay”. So it proved for me. I made neither of my meetings due to internet absence (Thursday, simply not provided) and failure (Friday - it was down throughout our stay, together with the electrics). I’m writing this on my mobile, with little prospect of posting it today either. Welcome to the rural, mountain region of Galicia!

It is lovely here: green and fertile; full of pastures, streams and cattle. This also means it is very wet, hung about with low cloud and that the paths are liberally spattered with cow dung. Glass half empty - glass half full! Take your pick. I will say that the cheese is delicious (served with honey).

Today’s stage will forever be known to us as “the hill of the starving Dutchman”. Last year, climbing a very steep part around 9km in, an exhausted, bedraggled figure loomed out of the fog at us, begging for food. He was a young pilgrim, almost crushed by the cold wet day, his pack, the remoteness of the location. Incredibly, (or, perhaps, by Divine design?), we had half a large chocolate bar on us. We do not normally carry food (although, I do now keep an energy bar in my “save a hike kit”). We also shared our water to top up his canteen. He was, only about 100m from the summit, but, the Albergue was shut. It made us realize how quickly you can get into trouble. We saw him later, as we tried to dry off in the solitary open cafe 3km down the trail, inadequately patting ourselves down with paper towels. He looked much restored, finally inside, getting warm. We knew the feeling.

Today, the rain fell at a pace our gear could cope with, so we stayed dry/warm enough. The summit albergue was not only open, but still serving breakfast. Sometimes, all it takes is less rain to make the day sing.

I’m trying hard to hear the music today. Last night, our hostel offered a little more than hospitality, at least to me.

We all know Carey is attractive to most phyla of the animal kingdom. Puppies, kitties, cows, chameleons flock to him, (people too), eschewing me on the rush passed. However, the arthropods, (insects, mites, spiders), feel differently. They pass Carey with barely a glance, on their way to the Karen-buffet.

I woke on Friday morning with a swollen, discoloured hand and wrist. I’m guessing spider bite. After 2 days of antihistamines, I can again make a fist and use a knife, but it’s still hot and puffy. And so is much of the rest of me. I barely slept last night due to (I suspect) bed bugs. Carey was blissfully unaffected. I have more than two dozen, angry, red lumps all over. There’s nothing to do, but up the dosage and try super-hard not to scratch…. This also happened last year. It’s not a Camino tradition I feel particularly thrilled about.