October 8: Winding down

Today was a hard one: 30.1km stage, during which we climbed 636m. Coming after 700km already walked, it took its toll. Our hostel was a further 1.6km from the trail. We dragged ourselves back into town to the supermarket before calling it quits. We are now holed up in our room, sharing a nice bottle of local wine and a healthy picnic: boots off, showered and feeling not at all sociable, except with each other.

After some reflection, we both admit that the crowds, babble of different languages, cavalcade of pets is more “authentic” of the historical Camino experience. The lonesome walking on empty hills is a 21st Century phenomenon. The Way was always a busy place: caravans from all over Europe; an important trade route, and a two-way street. All those pilgrims had to go home again. It is actually very weird no one does the other way, a fact that may explain why some parts of the trail are only 20cm wide.

For dogs like collies, it feels like walking with their human every day could be fun. Yesterday, we passed an evidently-exhausted greyhound that looked beyond miserable. They are not endurance animals. We’ve seen lapdogs peeking out of specially-adapted backpacks, which, presumably, give their little legs a break as needed, (but looks a bumpy ride).

I’m not sure that it is ever fair to ask a domestic pet to walk 800km just because you want to do so. But, I am definitely not fully informed. All I can say is that it happens, and quite frequently. Also, pilgrims with pets do not poop scoop, which is a whole different conversation.

Yesterday was our 8th Wedding Anniversary. I am still, daily, delighted that Carey chose me. I still feel like our relationship is new, in a good way. Carey is my home and (one of) my safe space(s), but I also still have the silly/giddy incredulity of new love. I am grateful, and a little astonished. At some point, reality/gravity will/must prevail, but I know how extraordinarily lucky I am.

Today is my birthday. I’m 58. It’s passed without fanfare, on account of the many hills and more kilometres we faced on waking this morning. Carey turns 60 this year, which is a milestone, and also uncharted territory for our generation. We are, at most, the second cohort to reach 60(ish) still active and with the expectation of a strong healthspan ahead. There are few/no rules for how to “be”. That’s exciting, but we have to leave stereotypes behind, if we are to fully embrace the possibilities – and that’s its own challenge.

I am also incredulous that I still have all-but-one of my own teeth; can (rarely) dance until dawn and walk 21 miles in a single day. I have a partner who still calls me “pretty girl”, which is a charming fiction, but reflects how he makes me feel (and, without the “pretty” bit, how I still experience myself. There is still so much to learn).