September 12: Words of blessing, the blessing of words

I write from the guest house of the Cistercian abbey in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It is a lovely space. The oldest buildings are 14th Century, although, thankfully, our lodgings are less than 200 years’ old and blessed with internal plumbing. The sister who checked us in was stern, but practical. She firmly informed us the main door is locked at 10pm, “when you will be sleeping”. She is not wrong, at least for pilgrims of our advancing years.

The way today was along dirt roads. The weather was dull and cool. We made fast progress. Having been shoo’ed out of yesterday’s guest house before 8:15am, and despite a conscientiously leisurely coffee break, we still arrived well before 2pm. So, we are sitting in the gathering area on the second floor, on either side of a wooden trestle table. It is a quiet, comfortable space.

The last several days have been about the people. Yesterday we bid “au revoir” to an older group of Texans, whom we shadowed from Pamploma. They are open, engaged, wondering – and took a rest day after 30km to Logroño on Wednesday. We should see them again in Burgos. This morning, we breakfasted with Veronica, a South African solo walker who, in widowhood, has found herself overwhelmed by the tasks formerly delegated to her husband. For her, the Camino is a re-set, and an affirmation of capacity. We spoke about “men’s work”, as she calls it: primarily, the decision-making she now faces. I spoke about her evident courage, urged her to embrace not only the “burdens” of “men’s work”, but its gifts: empowerment, entitlement, self-care (all in the best sense and within her paradigm). She hugged me as we parted and told me she had really needed this conversation.

That is often my Camino experience: the capacity to give the right words at the right time to another. On my very first Camino, I ate with an American couple one evening. During our conversation, the husband cried. Later, his wife thanked me for giving him “what he needed”, “his Camino moment”. It is such a privilege to be that person at that time.

Words are my gift. I came on this Camino deeply hoping I would write. My former editor, the indomitable Tsvetlana Elankova, said that, as a “non-professional writer”, I would be 5 years between books. She was right (2012, 2017, 2022). Tsveta is gone 3 years already (to cancer). I still hope to publish with Small Stations Press, if they will have me.

With some anxiety, I asked a wonderful, gifted and trusted friend if she would be my editor this time around. But, I know I need more to finish the collection. My working title is “Subducted on humanity”, but Tsveta always said I can’t see my own themes. That’s why a strong editor is so important. I am thrilled Anne has agreed to work with me and delighted to be writing these last few days. It is a blessing.