Oct 6: Istanbul is Constantinople

I am sitting on the very comfortable (and King-sized) bed in our hotel in Istanbul. Carey is downstairs in the spa (clothing optional in the Turkish bath!). He left here in his swimming shorts and a fetching mini-robe provided by the hotel. It’s cotton, with tassels, quite the look, but he wears it with verve.

We arrived at the extraordinary Istanbul airport yesterday and promptly got thousands of steps making our way to passport control. It’s huge, new (all gleaming glass, steel). Turkish Airlines is the largest single carrier in the world. Istanbul has surpassed Dubai as the busiest airport in the world.

We marvelled at the meta-economy of the car services. They have staging posts directly outside the terminal. A multilingual handler wrangles the guests and tag teams with a runner, who takes you to the carpark, where the designated driver picks you up…. Our ride was an extraordinary “party van”, with uplighting, joss sticks and an extraordinary deco-style ceiling.

The promised terrace restaurant with views over the Bosphorus turned out to be next door. We were escorted down the street by the head porter and enjoyed a very pleasant G&T looking out over the city lights.

We have breakfast included, as a treat. It was an impressive spread – including some lovely touches: an actual honeycomb, fresh börek, delicious short pastries with sesame, dates…. We loitered over coffee, strolled out mid-morning. We are in the Fatih area, next to Topkapi Palace. We walked to the Blue Mosque within 5-6 minutes.

We found the Tourist Entry (not the Prayer Entry). The queue was long, but it moved quickly. Information is given in English and in Russian. We had planned ahead, so made it through the modesty check unhindered. Inside is spectacular. A Cathedral is an oblong space, however soaring skyward. The Blue Mosque is wide, capacious. The decorations are so harmonious, vibrant, adorning every surface, yet feeling restrained, with a simple colour-pallet. Light is the theme – electric, natural. Brightness is a defining memory. I knelt in the Women’s Prayer area. We acknowledge the same God, albeit differently. I just wanted some spiritual time in such an amazing Place of Worship.

We walked down to the Galata Bridge, crossed over and came back. It’s double-decked, with restaurants on the lower level, the road and dozens of fishermen on the upper. Tens of rods poked over the edge, on both sides, lead weights bobbing at eye-level from the lower floor. The waterway is chock-a-block: from small cruise ships to fantastical, gold-painted mega-gondolas, with carved figureheads and red cushions; passenger ferries shuttle back and forth. Further out, ocean-going cruise ships are docked.

We went into the Spice Bazaar. It was a real feast for the eyes (and nose): artfully laid-out buckets of candied fruit; baskets of beautifully curated teas, peppered with flower petals; coloured bins of spices; brightly lit jewelry stalls, making sure the gold gleamed, the stones glittered; mirrored mosaic lanterns; baklava in pistachio green, beetroot (ube?) purple, saffron orange-yellow….

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Inspired by our 2024 Camino Francais, Karen has a periodic podcast called "I sent you a bloody boat", personal thoughts on faith by a person who believes in thinking. Also, known as "The Reluctant Christian". You can listen to it on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts at: